Smug supper

14 April 2010
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When in doubt, a wise man once said to me, add more duck fat. I don’t think he knows how to boil water, but he does know this. I hadn’t considered it before, but now, I can’t say I disagree. To be sure, you wouldn’t like duck fat in your chocolate cake (I think), but […]

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The high low

12 April 2010
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Now that we have the black truffle genome mapped, the time has come to eat it, too. Truffles of all kinds tend to pair well with delicate things. White truffles shaved over fresh pasta or a poached egg, for example. Black truffles stirred into a creamy risotto, or stuffed under the skin of a chicken […]

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Best Article Ever

8 April 2010
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Breaking news here at MF: The genome of the black Périgord truffle has finally been decoded! Oh happy day! This calls for a toast, don’t you think? Perhaps some nibbles, too? It’s time to celebrate! Now if only I knew what it meant to decode a genome. (Merci pour la nouvelle, Philippe!)

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Receive!

5 April 2010
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I’ve barely had this site a month, yet I’m sure we’ve been through this already: I don’t like recipes. They stifle creativity and keep people from trusting their own senses. Lists and measurements and instructions might lead to better meals from time to time, but they keep us at a certain distance from what our […]

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Happy Easter!

3 April 2010
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Lamb is great for Easter. This stuffed leg of lamb was fantastic. But don’t serve it on this green stuff. I cannot tell you what it’s called. They told me I could use it in a salad. They told me its name, too. But I’ve forgotten now, or perhaps repressed it. Which is for the […]

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Les carottes râpées

1 April 2010
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‘This is very good for jetlag’ were the words accompanying my carrot salad.  I’d arrived in France months ago, but it didn’t seem worth belaboring the point. Besides, I was sitting in a grandiose apartment belonging to my grandparents’ friends and busy feeling out of place. The space sprawled, the language flew over my ears, […]

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Milling about

30 March 2010
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I have great affection for what I think of as bistro styles of food, though this could be a category that exists only in my mind. They are prepared either ages in advance (boeuf bourguignon, lamb shanks, duck confit) or in a very small amount of time just before you want to eat (salad with […]

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Taking stock away

25 March 2010
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As I’ve mentioned here before, my interests in food and cooking date to a college study abroad program in Paris. As I’ve also mentioned here before, I knew little about food and nothing about its preparation before I got there. I did not enroll in any formal cooking program; I did have ‘real’ classes to […]

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Green is good

22 March 2010
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There is an Italian restaurant off Pimlico Road in London that sits squarely in the old-school. It has a nouveau Milano-type décor with black, white, red leather, and a Sloane ranger-type clientele that matches. The staff are brusque, noisy, and not that nice, unless you’ve ordered the most expensive wine on the list. In the […]

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Mama’s cheese nips

19 March 2010
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I like to think I am a competent cook. It could also be that I am terrible at following recipes, which is certainly the case, and sometimes people think that those who don’t use recipes are competent. So I could just be believing the stories other people tell me. But I digress. If I am […]

4 comments

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