Green is good

There is an Italian restaurant off Pimlico Road in London that sits squarely in the old-school. It has a nouveau Milano-type décor with black, white, red leather, and a Sloane ranger-type clientele that matches. The staff are brusque, noisy, and not that nice, unless you’ve ordered the most expensive wine on the list. In the fall and winter, a halfway amiable Godfather stalks about with the truffle box. Opening his precious case and shoving it inches from your nose seconds before snapping it shut again, he tells you to order fresh, hand-cut pasta with butter and parmesan and that he will grate some of the truffle over it for you. He’s the nicest fellow in the joint. But if you have to ask the price for the pleasure of his truffles, you can’t afford it.

The restaurant does have other pleasures, one of which is more surprising. My friends had ordered deep-fried spinach. I expected something like a cheese stick from Chili’s but filled with green stuff instead, which sounded kind of gross. Rather, the greens arrived at our table looking—much like the restaurant’s clientele—curiously gravity-defiant, leaves’ edges curling up this way and that. There was no crust or oozing, and in response to a fork, the spinach shattered. It did the same thing against the roof of my mouth. It was weightless and earthy and ephemeral and I had to have more. I went back the following week. And probably the week after that.

But I don’t live in London any longer, I don’t deep fry at home, I still can’t afford white truffles, and it’s not the season anyway. Kale chips are as trendy as green veg gets (who knew?), similar to my beloved fritte spinaci, but better somehow, more briny. It’s a lot of green that doesn’t cost a lot.

Crispy cavolo nero

You can find a recipe for this anywhere. Either cook the kale for a long time at a low temperature, or for a short time at a high temperature. I’m impatient, and therefore prefer the latter.

1 bunch kale, Tuscan or otherwise  |  extra virgin olive oil  |  sea salt

Heat oven to 400.

Wash kale well. Dry thoroughly, and cut or tear into chip-like shapes of the same approximate size, discarding the thickest bits of ribs. Toss with a very small amount of olive oil, and when the oven is hot, heat until crispy and a little bit translucent, 5-10 minutes. Watch carefully, or you’ll burn them every time like I do (though they’ll still be good).  Sprinkle with sea salt. Serve as an amuse-gueule or aforementioned fancy garnish for soup or polenta.

Serves 4-6. Or 1. They’re addictive.