Happy Aunt’s Day!

Is there an Aunt’s Day anywhere? I don’t think so, which is a shame, because my aunt is pretty great. And look! She also has the greatest pots and pans. (The one on the top left weighs ten tons, for the record, with that other clocking in at a mere five.) She makes the greatest vinaigrette, too. Sherry vinegar and a *tiny* bit of Dijon mustard are the keys, she says.

In spite of the fact that I had to move to another continent to learn how to cook, Aunt Flo Hope and I have a lot in common on food. We agree that salad belongs at the end of the meal (to cleanse the tongue and nostrils—sorry, palate). We like capers stored in salt instead of brine. And we have a deep distaste for following directions. I’ve learned a lot from Flo Hope, too. For example, five tons make great biceps, and cast iron is wonderful for most things. I retain my fear of kitchen implements that do not go in the dishwasher, but maybe one day I’ll come around. Either way, we make a good team. There was flounder meunière with brown butter + capers (method over here), a potato gratin (method below), sautéed spinach (method obvious). We had a watercress salad with that sherry vinaigrette (method above) to follow. And for dessert, there was this little morsel:

This is Flo Hope’s granddaughter, Sydney, best flour scooper this earth has ever known. She’s the daughter of Katie, most effusive (and therefore most desirable) dinner guest the earth has ever known. But back to dinner. The fish was fantastic. All I had to do was make sure not to overcook it. And for that gratin dauphinois: These are often made with heavy cream, which I find a little thick and rich, especially this time of year. Flo Hope makes a béchamel to go with hers, and I—somewhat lazier—often use half + half or light cream. I’ve read that one can use chicken stock to great effect as well.

Whatever liquid you use, a few notes: Do not peel the potatoes. Potato skins are nutritious, and their presence does not, in my view, affect the flavor or appearance of the final dish in any material way. The potatoes should be sliced as thinly as possible. A mandoline will help, but the expensive ones are silly and take up too much space. A cheap and small device (like this) will do. If there are white spots that appear on the potatoes after you have sliced them, do not wipe or rinse. They are starch cells or globules or such that have been burst by the work of your knife, and they will help to thicken the liquid as it cooks. And last, bland potatoes are dull. A very wise (and impossibly svelte) woman once told me that it is important to not eat anything unless it is very, very good, and I agree. This means that you should season your potatoes vigorously, and I should eat at Flo Hope’s much more often. Can 12 May be Aunt’s Day? Happy Aunt’s Day, FH. Love, me

Potato gratin with shallots + thyme

1 lb of potatoes will serve 3-4 people at least, 2 lbs (1 kg) will serve 6-8, and so forth. You will need about 1 cup of liquid per pound of potatoes. For the vessel, a 9 in (20 cm) shallow baking dish is perfect at the 2 lb mark. I have a dinky saucepan that I use for the 1 lb size.

Butter, about 1 T  |  several shallots  |  kosher salt + pepper  |  1 big pinch thyme leaves, fresh if possible  |  2 lbs potatoes  |  2 cups béchamel or half + half  |  pinch nutmeg  |  Gruyère cheese, about ½ cup grated

Heat oven to 400. Butter the baking dish.

Thinly slice the shallots. Heat a big skillet over medium-low, add some butter, and when it has melted, add the shallots, thyme leaves, and season with salt + pepper. Cook, stirring from time to time. Remove from heat when the shallots are fully wilted and a little golden.

Meanwhile, slice the potatoes as thinly as you can manage. Use a mandoline if you have one.

For the seasoning, I like to measure out 1 t salt into a small bowl, and add a little bit less pepper along with a small pinch of nutmeg. Mix it up a bit. The idea will be to use all of this for 1 kg of potatoes, sprinkling in a healthy pinch every now and again.

Pour a small amount of the béchamel into the bottom of your baking dish. Layer the potatoes on top so they overlap slightly. After 2 or so layers, pour over some more béchamel and season with a big pinch of the salt + pepper mixture. Press down with your fingers so the liquid gets between all the crevices. Scatter half the shallots over this. Do a few more layers, pour over some béchamel, press again, season again, and scatter with the remaining shallots. Finish layering and seasoning. Make the top layer pretty. The potatoes should be nicely covered by the liquid. (Use milk if you run out.) Try not to fill the baking dish to the very top, as it will bubble up and over. Sprinkle the cheese over everything.

The gratin will bake for about 1 hour and 20 minutes. Cover with aluminum foil for the first hour, uncover for the last 20 minutes. Set the dish on a baking sheet in the oven to catch whatever mess gets made. Reheats beautifully, so feel free to make this early in the day. It will be so good you forget to take a picture.