Ottolenghi’s farro + roasted pepper salad

Happy 4th of July! Or, if you are in Britain and feeling curmudgeonly: Happy Treacherous Ungrateful Insurrectionary Day!

Our cousins who feel this way—and particularly that one who wrote to wish me a Happy Treacherous Ungrateful Insurrectionary Day—may be overlooking those somewhat awkward matters of tax (too much) and representation (too little). Lest you think that tax and representation are not insurrection-worthy in America, please turn on the U.S. news today.

But there is plenty more for which to be ungrateful. In the instance of food, there is that British dish called bubble and squeak. Which is what? And why would anyone want to eat something named it? Pudding just means dessert, of course, but it is also an often creepy liquor-soaked cake of sorts, and I know someone who’s had one (the same one) in his icebox for the last twelve years. Guess where I’m not going for supper? And what about those “soldiers” that get served with boiled eggs? Perhaps they thought they could stick their heads in their breakfasts while other things were happening across the pond? (“Soldiers” at breakfast are strips of toast, which is most logical, no?)

But there are other things. The Brits have produced that world famous global franchise Gordon Ramsay, along with Jamie Oliver, the man who may actually fix school lunches, not to mention the Fat Duck, one of the world’s best and most original restaurants. For those in New York, April Bloomfield, the Spotted Pig, and the Breslin would be sorely missed if they were to leave us. And this here salad, for which we are also highly grateful, comes to us from the London-based Ottolenghi.

A restaurant and takeaway shop based in Notting Hill, Ottolenghi serves food that is gutsy, creative, highly flavorful. With an Israeli as its patron and a Palestinian its head chef, it might also be proof that there are We Can All Get Along Days. Especially with this salad, which is outstanding. When served in a blue bowl, it makes a smashingly patriotic dish to bring along to fireworks and barbecues tonight. Or to lunch tomorrow. Or at any other time at all. The vegetarians among the ranks will love you for it. For those unfamiliar with farro (or, less romantically, emmer wheat), it is a tasty grain, distinctly nutty, with a satisfying bite. Farro is not spelt, as is sometimes believed, and spelt will not work as a substitute here. Barley will, though. Either one will give you lots of energy for your insurrections, er, celebrations.

Happy Fourth, and cheerio,

Ottolenghi’s farro + roasted pepper salad

Adapted from The Guardian, also in Ottonlenghi’s new book (and my new favorite cookbook), Plenty

For the salad:  150 g/1 cup farro  |  2 red peppers, roasted  |  10 olives  |  4 scallions  |  100 g/3.5 oz feta |  1 T fresh oregano or thyme leaves

For the dressing:  Juice of 1 lemon  |  3 T olive oil  |  1 T honey  |  .25 t allspice  |  .25 t smoked paprika  |  1 small garlic clove, smooshed + peeled  |  .5 t kosher salt

If you will roast the peppers yourself, this can be done on the grill or in a very hot (450F/220+C) oven. My preferred method: Put them whole and dry on a sheet pan and roast in the oven, turning occasionally, until the skin is completely black, about 30 minutes. Then remove, place in a bowl, and cover with a lid or piece of foil for at least 10 minutes. They should now be completely collapsed. Uncover, let cool, and then slip off the blackened skin with your fingers. Pick out the seeds and white bits from the center, and use however you like.

For the rest: Bring a pot of water to a boil and add the farro. Simmer until just tender. (Mushy is not what you’re going for.) If the package does not say how long to cook your particular version of farro, start checking after about 15 minutes. Whenever it is done, drain and leave to cool.

Meanwhile, combine all the ingredients for the dressing in a small bowl, stir well, and set aside.

Slice the peppers in long strips, pit and crack the olives, and slice the scallions thinly. Crumble the feta.

When the farro has mostly cooled (warm is fine), combine with the peppers, olives, scallions, feta, herbs + dressing and toss gently to combine. Garnish with a little more feta, scallion, and smoked paprika, if you like.

Serves 4